Wanderlust Creamery’s coconut and corn ice cream mixes a coconut base with swirls of corn jam

Corn is arguably the flavor of summer. It can be roasted in its husk over an open flame until the kernels blister, tossed in mayonnaise and Tajín for an elote salad, or baked into a cast iron skillet of cornbread. And it can also be the star ingredient in the most summery of desserts: ice cream.

Adrienne Borlongan, the founder and food scientist behind the popular Southern California ice cream chain Wanderlust Creamery, dedicates an entire chapter to corn ice cream in her new cookbook, The World of Ice Cream. As the name of her scoop shops suggests, Borlongan’s flavors are inspired by travel and serve as love letters to unique combinations and ingredients from different parts of the world. Her book includes recipes for honey-butter corn dalgona inspired by Korean honeycomb candy, a chica morada sorbet made from Peruvian purple corn, and the cherished combination of coconut and corn that’s popular in multiple countries.

“Growing up Filipino, the flavors my elders and relatives always talked about were cheese and corn,” Borlongan says. In the Philippines, corn is often seen as a dessert first—typically topped with grated coconut, sugar, and a touch of salt, and sold in small cups. In the Philippines, corn ice cream is as popular (if not more so) than colorful ube and buko pandan flavors. Through further research, Borlongan found that coconut and corn is a beloved combination in other parts of the world too, including Nigeria, Brazil, and neighboring Southeast Asian countries. This sweet, nutty pairing is adored globally—except in the U.S. But Borlongan aims to change that through her ice cream.

“People think it’s strange to put beans and corn in desserts,” she says, recounting a story about a professional ice cream-making Facebook group where the idea of corn-flavored ice cream was met with skepticism and mockery. “That’s why I felt a whole chapter on corn ice cream was necessary,” she adds. “It’s a significant flavor—especially outside of the U.S.”

Borlongan’s coconut and corn ice cream starts with a silky coconut cream base. The corn flavor comes from a buttery corn jam that can be prepared in advance and is swirled throughout the ice cream, creating sunshine-like streaks of yellow.

While making ice cream at home might seem intimidating, Borlongan has tips to ensure success. “Ice cream is a science,” she says. “It’s not like cooking; it’s more like baking. Every ingredient plays a different role.” To achieve the perfect balance of ingredients, which creates small ice crystals ensuring a smooth mouthfeel, Borlongan suggests using an online ice cream calculator to determine the correct ratio of fat, sugar, and water for each recipe. She also encourages patience and having fun—after all, who can be frustrated by something as delightful as corn ice cream?

Coconut & Corn Ice Cream Recipe

(Makes about 1 quart)

Ingredients:

For the base:

• ¾ cup (150 grams) sugar
• 1¼ cups + 2½ tablespoons (200 grams) glucose powder or ¾ cup + 3 tablespoons (300 grams) tapioca or corn syrup
• ⅛ teaspoon salt
• ¾ teaspoon (2 grams) dairy-free stabilizer (optional – see note)
• 1⅓ cups (325 grams) water
• 2 cups (426 grams) coconut cream
• 6 tablespoons (80 grams) virgin coconut oil

For the corn jam:

• 2 tablespoons (30 grams) butter
• 6 tablespoons (75 grams) granulated sugar
• ¼ cup + ¾ teaspoons (40 grams) glucose or 3 tablespoons (60 grams) tapioca or corn syrup
• 1¼ cups (6 ounces/175 grams) cooked corn kernels

Instructions:

Step 1: Prepare an ice bath of your choice.

Step 2: Make the base: In a small bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. In a tall mixing vessel, blend the water and half of the coconut cream with a hand blender. Slowly add the dry ingredients while blending; blend thoroughly to dissolve all the solids.

Step 3: Pour the mixture into a medium saucepan and cook on medium-low heat, whisking constantly until it reaches 165 degrees.

Step 4: Once the base reaches 165 degrees on an instant thermometer, immediately remove from the heat and pour it back into the tall mixing vessel. Add in the remaining coconut cream and coconut oil, and blend with a hand blender for two minutes to fully homogenize.

Step 5: Transfer the base into the prepared ice bath to cool. Once completely cool, pour through a fine-mesh strainer into an airtight container. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days.

Step 6: Make the corn jam: In a small saucepan, melt the butter with the sugar and glucose. Pour the mixture into a countertop blender along with the corn, and process until completely smooth. Store in an airtight container, refrigerated until ready to use, for up to 3 days. This makes about 1 cup.

Step 7: Make the ice cream: Once the ice cream base is completely chilled, place a loaf pan and corn jam in the freezer to chill. Quickly blend the ice cream base once more with a hand blender or whisk before pouring it into an ice cream machine. Process the base according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 8: Churn the ice cream until it reaches the texture of very stiff soft-serve and the surface begins to look dry (about 25 degrees with a thermometer gun).

Step 9: Transfer half the ice cream to the chilled loaf pan, then top with half of the corn variegate. Repeat the layer process once more. Immediately place the ice cream into the freezer for 15 minutes to allow it to firm up.

Step 10: Using a spatula, gently fold the ice cream to create swirls of corn throughout; three or four folds should be sufficient.

Step 11: Press a piece of wax paper directly on top of the ice cream and freeze for at least 3 hours before serving.

Note:

Nondairy Stabilizer

Makes 110 grams (enough to stabilize 36 recipes)

This synergistic blend of emulsifiers and stabilizers gives ice cream recipes made with nondairy milk alternatives (like coconut cream, rice milk, or pea milk) a rich texture and smooth meltdown, but with a clean finish. All of the ingredients can be found in baking supply stores and online.

Recommended dosage: 0.025% to 0.04% (by weight) of total recipe.

• ½ cup (36 grams) soy lecithin
• 3 tablespoons (36 grams) tara gum
• 1 tablespoon + 2½ teaspoons (18 grams) guar gum (optional)
• 1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon (9 grams) lambda carrageenan
• 1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon (10 grams) glucose powder

Mix all ingredients together and store in an airtight container in a cool and dry place. Mix well before each use.

From The World of Ice Cream by Adrienne Borlongan. Copyright © 2024 by Adrienne Borlongan. Excerpted by permission of Abrams. All rights reserved.